I woke up in a friend's tiny apartment on a gloomy day on the Upper West Side about ten years ago, rummaged through her tea, and selected a black canister with a funny French label, which I translated as "Marriage Brothers." A few minutes later, I reflected, "This is the best tea I've ever had." It still is. Hints of malt and chocolate, but light and integral to the black tea taste, not added in. A sip is just very delicate and whole. I know I am influenced by the aura of French luxury, but I want to describe the flavor, and my resulting mood, as exalted. Maybe I haven't changed so much since I memorized Baudelaire at 16: "Be intoxicated. By wine, by poetry, by virtue, as you wish." I wish tea.
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